Exploring Stockholm's Architecture!

Stockholm Public Library by Gunnar Asplund (photo by me!)

Stockholm has some amazing architecture... from Gothic to the ultra-modern and from the unknown to the world famous. The most common architecture themed questions I get from hotel guests usually pertain to the architect Gunnar Asplund and his well known work, especially the Stockholm Public Library and the Skogskyrkogården ("Woodland Cemetery") which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Woodland Cemetery (c) Susanne Hallmann, Kyrkogårdsförvaltningen Stockholms stad

If you are coming to Stockholm and happen to be an architecture buff... then I have some good tips for you. To start off with, make sure to visit the museum Arkitektur och Designcentrum (The Swedish Centre for Architecture and Design)! Formerly known as Arkitekturmuseet, located on the island of Skeppsholmen just adjacent to the modern art museum Moderna, they have some interesting exhibitions... like the current Light Houses- Young Nordic Architecture. They also have some fun events, like their annual Ginger Bread House competition!

Karolinska new lecture hall. Photo: Pol Martin/arcspace

If you want to explore the city and see the architecture first hand, then there are some nifty new ways to do so. First off you have an online guide to Stockholm architecture provided by the wonderful people at arcspace. They have a fantastic architectural travel guide to Stockholm with great information of the best architectural designs in the city... including pictures, design information, addresses and more. The Rival Hotel is mentioned as well! It is completely free and you can either print out the guide ahead of time and take it with you or have it open on your smart phone or tablet computer while you wander through Stockholm.

Hammarbysjöstad Observatorium landscpe. Photo: Pol Martin/arcspace

Next up you have the app Arkitektur Nu (provided by the Swedish Centre for Architecture and Design)  which you can download to your smart phone for free. This app uses GPS and needs no cellular or internet connection to use... so free to download and free to use! The app has an interactive map and features some of the most acclaimed projects of recent years. These two guides/apps are mainly concerned with more modern architecture... if you are interested in architecture of the histroric variety, check this website regarding architectural styles in Gamla Stan (old town). In this area of the city you will find everything from Late Renaissance to Baroque to Art Nouveau.

Some girder anchors on a building in Gamla Stan.

A bit of architectural trivia for you... when you are walking around Gamla Stan, admiring the buildings, keep an eye on the girder anchors (or anchor plates). These pieces of iron anchor the inside beams to the houses' exterior structure and come in different forms (everything from straight lines to curly q's). Each decade or time period has its own design... so the age of the building can be determined by the girder anchor on the outside. Click here for a guide for some of them.

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AN architecture, design, museum, sightseeing, walk

Skogskyrkogården (Woodland Cemetery)

Skogskyrkogården is a large, forrested cemetery just south of Stockholm. You might be wondering why I would recommend visiting a cemetery while in Stockholm, but Skogskyrkogården is, in fact, a UNESCO World Heritage site (a place of significant natural or cultural value). Completed in 1920, the cemetery was designed by Swedish architects Gunnar Asplund and Sigurd Lewerentz blending architecture with the natural landscape to create a wonderfully tranquil enviroment. I love coming here in the autumn, taking a long walk through the grounds... admiring the architecture as well as the natural beauty. Be aware that it is a "working" cemetery and they have around 2,000 burials per year, so be respectful of any services in progress. Unfortunately, the visitors' center and guided tours are only open/available during the summer months. But this doesn't mean you can't explore on your own! You can download a visitors' guide (complete with map) from their website in pdf-form. Of special interest for many is the grave site of Swedish actress Greta Garbo. One of the most popular days to visit the cemetery is All Saints/Hallows Day, but, once again, remember to be respectful of the people there visiting family graves. It is quite easy to get to the cemetery from the Rival Hotel. Just take the subway from Slussen, green line going south in the direction of Farsta Strand. Exit at Skogskyrkogård station (about a 10 minute trip) and turn right as you leave the station. The entrance is 100 meters on the right hand side.
Gunnar Asplund, a representative of Swedish neo-classical architecture, is one of the most influential modernist Swedish architects. Besides Skogskyrkogård, another of his major works can be found in the city... The Stockholm Public Library. The library is located just north of the downtown area on Sveavägen. The closest subway station is Odenplan (green line).

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AN architecture, unesco

All Saints' Day at Skogskyrkogården

All Saints' Day is celebrated in Sweden this year on the 3rd of November and the best place to celebrate this holiday is at the beautiful Woodland Cemetery (Skogskyrkogården). This cemetery, designed by Swedish architect Gunnar Asplund, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site... which denotes a place of special cultural or physical significance.

(c) Susanne Hallmann, Kyrkogårdsförvaltningen Stockholms stad

On this day many Swedes come to the cemetery to place lit candles on the graves of loved ones or light candles in general for loved ones who have passed. The Woodland Cemetery is a beautiful place year-round, but with all of the candles lit it becomes a magical place. On November 3rd they have longer opening hours: 10am to 8pm instead of 11am to 4pm for the rest of the week. There will also be choir and organ concerts in the Chapel of the Holy Cross (Heliga Korsets Kapell) between 3pm and 7pm. Just remember that it is a working cemetery and that you remain respectful of other visitors. Another tip... bring a flashlight if possible. The sun does set at around 3:50pm!

(c) Susanne Hallmann, Kyrkogårdsförvaltningen Stockholms stad

The cemetery is located on the southern outskirts of Stockholm and is easy to reach by subway. From the Rival Hotel you take the subway from Slussen, south in the direction of Farsta Strand. The cemetery has its own subway stop: Skogskyrkogård. Just follow the signs after exiting the station...

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AN architecture, park, tradition, unesco

Riddarholmen

Palaces surrounding Birger Jarl Square

One of the central islands of Stockholm and, along with Gamla Stan, one of the most historic, Riddarholmen is often overlooked by visitors. Located just adjacent to Gamla Stan, Riddarholmen is the home of some of Stockholm's most beautiful buildings including Riddarholmen Church. The fact that the main central highway separates the two islands may deter visitors, but a bridge over the highway connects them making a visit to Riddarholmen quite easy. The lack of shops, restaurants and cafés also makes it much quieter than neighbouring Gamla Stan. This makes it the perfect place to escape the crowds and soak up some history.

Statue of Birger Jarl, Stockholm's founder

Many Swedish noble families had their palaces here during the 17th and 18th centuries. These days the buildings house the appellate and Supreme courts as well as many Swedish government agencies. The fact that it was the nobility that lived here means that the cobblestone streets are much wider and brighter than Gamla Stan (where the working class lived before Stockholm expanded). There are great views of Stockholm from the waterfront of Riddarholmen... especially the north shore with views of the City Hall.

Riddarholmen Church

The Riddarholm Church dates back as far as the 13th century and is the only remaining medieval monastery church in Stockholm (built originally as a grey friars monastery). It is most famous for being the final resting place of the kings & queens of Sweden up until the 1950's. Every regent from Gustav II Adolf to Gustav V is buried here... with the exception of Queen Christina who is buried in St Peters in Rome. It is also the resting place of many nobles and a few of the medieval kings. It is, unfortunately, only open to the public during the summer months. Another fun, and adventurous, thing to do on Riddarholmen during the warmer months is one of the roof top tours... not for people afraid of heights!

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AN architecture, Gamla Stan, history

The Stockholm City Hall (Stadshuset)

Photo by Jeppe Wikström, SVB

One of the most famous buildings in Sweden, and a symbol of Stockholm, is the City Hall or Stadshuset. It is the seat of the city government as well as a popular tourist site. Not only is it a strikingly beautiful building, but visitors can climb the tower to enjoy the view, visit the Tower Museum and take guided tours. One explanation for the building's popularity with visitors is the fact that it is the venue for the annual Nobel banquet where the Swedish king & queen host the Nobel prize winners (an event that is televised and seen by millions around the world).

Looking up at the tower..

The City Hall was completed in 1923 and construction took 12 years using nearly 8 million red bricks. The 106 meter high tower is topped with Three Crowns, the historic symbol of Sweden. The building is located on the eastern edge of the island of Kungsholmen... just a stone's throw from Gamla Stan (Old Town) and the central train station. From the Rival Hotel it's a 25 minute walk through Gamla Stan, or else you can take the subway to T-Centralen (all lines).

The fake tomb of Birger Jarl

Located on the eastern side of the building, looking out over the city, is the gold-plate sarcophagus of the founder of Stockholm: Birger Jarl. It is a fake tomb... his remains are actually buried in Varnhem Abbey. Visitors can climb the tower on their own. Because of the limited space, only 30 people are allowed into the tower at a time (in 40 minute intervals). Admission is 40 SEK, free for children under 12 and for holders of the Stockholm Card. To visit the rest of the City Hall, for example to see the Blue and Golden Halls, one needs to take a guided tour. Prices change depending on the season, 40-90 SEK, but children under 12 are free as well as holders of the Stockholm Card. The tour takes approximately 40 minutes... check their website for tour times and languages.

The park/garden in front of city hall

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AN architecture, tours

Strandvägen Waterfront & Esplanade

Strandvägen with Strandbryggan in the foreground

Strandvägen is the waterfront road located in the Östermalm district with some of the most prestigious addresses in Stockholm. With its tree-lined esplanade, boat quays and gorgeous architecture, it has become a favorite promenade for tourists and Stockholmers alike. It is about 1 kilometer in length and connects the downtown area with Djurgården (where you will find popular sights like the Vasa Museum and Skansen Park). Along the way (in the summertime) you will find a few cafés and casual restaurants. One of special note is Strandbryggan Sea Club, a floating restaurant & bar that I've mentioned earlier just at the base of the bridge over to Djurgården.

The palace guard cavalry marching on Strandvägen

On the western end of the street, along the shores of the Nybroviken inlet, you have the starting point for the Strömma and Cinderella boats heading out to the archipelago. Don't feel like walking? The Djurgård Streetcar line runs along Strandvägen taking people from the downtown area out to Djurgården and back. Want to walk even further? The Djurgårds Canal walking/jogging path starts at the Djurgårds bridge. The easiest way to get to Strandvägen from the Rival Hotel is by subway... red line, 4 stations to Östermalmstorg and then it's just a ten minute walk down to the water.

Streetcar that traffics Strandvägen

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AN archipelago, architecture, Djurgården, strömma, walk